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No. 623,l48. Patented Apr. I8, |899. w. P.- GAMMONS, 1n.

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i iran STATES 'PATENT @linienG NVEICOME P. GAMMONS, JR., OF NEV YORK, N. Y.

HAT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 623,148, dated April 18, 1899.

Application filed April 8, 1898 Serial No. 676,864. (No model.)

T0 @ZZ wwm, t may concern.'

p Beit known that L WELooME P. GAMMoNs, .I r., a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Hats, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to hats; and it consists in a hat having a sweat-band and a reed-cloth containing areed or cord and also having a thread arranged to form stitches through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat to connect the saine and other stitches over the edge of the sweat-band and through the reed-cloth below, but not above,

the reed or cord in the bight thereof and-over the folded edge of the hat, such latter stitches being designed to snugly secure the reed or co'rd in the bight of the cloth and cause the said bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent said folded edge of the hat and the connectingstitches from contacting with the hair and forehead of the wearer and being deteriorated by perspiration and is also enabled to prevent the connecting-stitches from chaiing the forehead of the wearer. l

The invention also consistsinlapping one end of the reed-cloth over the other end of the reed-cloth andthe reed orcord therein and connecting said lapped ends of the cloth by the thread stitches which connect the sweatband, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat,whereby labor is saved and a slnooth finish is produced.

YVith the foregoing in View the invention will be fully understood from the following description and claims when taken in conj unction with the annexed drawings, in which- Figure l is a perspective View of a soft hat embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating the manner in which the thread is arranged to'forni the stitches. Fig. 3 is an enlarged transverse section taken through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat; and Fig. 4 is a detail horizontal section illustrating the manner in which the ends of the reedcloth are lapped.

In the said drawings similar letters and numerals designate corresponding parts in all of the several views,A referring to whichbight b of cloth C, and E designates a thread.v

This thread E is arranged to form stitches c through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat to connect the same and other stitches d over the edge of the sweatband, through the reed-cloth below, but not above,the reed contained by the bight thereof', and over the folded edge of the hat, these latter stitches being designed to snugly secure Athe reed or cord in the bight of the cloth and cause the said bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent said folded edge and the connectingstitches from contacting with the headand forehead of the wearer.

In connecting the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat I first adjust said parts so that they occupy the relative position before stated and then pass a needle carrying a thread through the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and folded edge of the hat to form a stitch c and connect the same. The thread is then retained to form a loop l, and the needle is drawn back through the folded edge of the hat, the reed-cloth, and the sweat-band. rIhe needle is now carried upwardly and is passed over the sweatband, through the reed-cloth, below thereed or cord therein, over the folded edge of the hat, and through the retained loop l. The loop 1 is now released, andthe thread is retained to forni a longitudinal loop 2, which extends through loop l and lies between the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat. After the needle is moved back through the reed-cloth it is carried aslight distance toward the right, so as to lay a'portion of thread 3 against the inner side of the reed-cloth above the sweat-band, and is again passed over the upper edge of the sweat-band, through the reed-cloth, below the reed in the bight thereof, over the folded edge of the hat,

and through the longitudinal loop 2. The

loop 2 is now released and thread is taken from the needle to form a loop 4, which extends through the loop 2 and is retained, after which the needle is returned and carried downwardly and is passed through the sweatband, the reed-cloth, 'and the folded edge of the hat and also through the retained loop 4. Said loop 4 is now released and the thread on the needle is retained to form a second loop l, which extends through the loop 4, after which the operation described is repeated until the sweat-band, the reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat are connected throughout their length and the reed or cord is properly secured in the bight of the reed-cloth throughout the length of the same. It will be appreciated from the foregoing that the strokes of the needle in its lower position will form stitches c, and its strokes in its upper position will form stitches d. The special manipulation of the thread forming the stitches c d will, by reason of the loops l, 2, and 4 resting between the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat, dress or ornament the space between the said reed-cloth and hat and is advantageous for such reason. I desire it understood, however, that I do not confine myself to such particular manipulation of the thread, as my invention chiefly resides in arranging a thread to form stitches through a sweat-band, a reedcloth, and the folded edge of a hat to connect the same and other stitches through the reedcloth alone below, but not above, the reed or cord in the bight thereof for the purposes stated.

In a contemporary application of even date herewith, Serial No. 676,853, I have shown and described a hat-sewing machine for connecting a sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of a hat in accordance with my present invention and for manipulating the thread forming the stitches in the peculiar manner before described. The organized stitch-forming mechanism of the said machine comprises a loop-taker, a needle carried by a vertically-movable frame and adapted to make two stitches when the frame is in its upper position and one stitch when the frame is in its lower position, a loop-retainer mov able in a direction at right .angles to the direction of movement'of the needle and loop-taker, and a suitable feed mechanism. When the feed is in the direction indicated by arrow in Fig. 2 and the movements of the said elements of the stitch-forming mechanism are properly timed, they will connect the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat and will also manipulate the thread in the peculiar manner described and shown in Fig. 2, as follows: When the needle is in its lower position, it will on its forward stroke pass through the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat and will then return. On the return movement of the needle the loop-taker will take a' loop (loop l of Fig.

2) therefrom and the loop-retainerwill also engage said loop. Simultaneously withthis the frame carrying the needle will be raised,

gso that the subsequent forward stroke of the needle will be above the sweat-band, through the reed-cloth, above the folded edge of the hat, and through the loop l held by the looptaker and loop-retainer. On the return movement of the needle in its upper position the loop-taker will release the loop l, which, however, is still held bythe loop-retainer, and will take another loop (loop 2 of Fig. 2) from the needle and draw it through loop 1. A feed of the materials in the direction indicated by arrow in Fig. 2 will then take place, and in consequence the subsequent forward stroke of the needle will be through the loop 2. On the return stroke of the needlethe loop-taker will shed the loop 2 and will take another loop (loop 4 of Fig. 2) from the needle and draw it through loop 2. The frame carrying the needle will then be depressed and the loop-retainer moved to shed the loop l.A On the subsequent forward stroke of the needle in its lower position it will take through the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat and also through the loop 4 on the loop-taker, which will release the said loop 4 and on the back or return stroke of the needle will take a loop (loop l of Fig. 2) and draw it through the loop 4. After thisV the operation described is repeated until the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat are connected throughout their length and the reed is properly secured in the bight of the reed-cloth, as desired.A

It will be appreciated from the foregoing that the stitches which secure the reed or cord in the bight of the cloth do not extend through the sweat-band and the folded edge of the hat, and consequently do not tend to cut the same. Said stitches, however, pass immediately above the edge of the sweatband, and thereby snugly secure such edge against the reed-cloth, as is desirable.

As will be seen by reference to Fig. 4 of the drawings, one end of the reed-cloth and the reed therein is extended beyond one end of the sweat-band,as indicated by F. vThe stitching of the sweat-band, reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat together is commenced at the said endlof the sweat-band and is continued until said end of the sweat-band approaches the path of the needle. At this time the sewing is stopped, and the extended end F of the reed-cloth and reed is telescoped into the other end Gr of the reed-cloth, from which a portion of the reed has been removed. With this done the sewing is continued to a finish when, as will be readily appreciated, the stitches will connect .the telescoped or lapped ends of the reed-cloth in addition to connecting the reed-cloth with the sweat-band and folded edge of the hat. This manner of connecting the ends of the reed-cloth is advantageous, because it saves labor and also IOO IIO

623,148 l U s because it insures a smooth iinish at the point where the ends of the reed-cloth are conuected, which is a desideratuin.

Having thus described my invention, what l claim is l. A hat having a sweat-band and a reedcloth the bight of which extends beyond the edge of the sweat-band and the folded edge of the hat and contains a reed or cord, and also having a continuous thread arranged to forrn lower stitches through the sweat-band, below the upper edge thereof, the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat to connect the saine, and also arranged to form upper stitches passing transversely above the upper edge of the sweat-band and through the reed-cloth below the reed or cord in the bight thereof, whereby the reed is snugly secured in the bight of the reed-cloth, and the upper edge of the sweat-band is dressed and snugly secured against the reed-cloth, substantially as specified.

2. A hat having a sweat-band anda reedcloth containing a reed or cord and also having one end of the reed or cord arranged within the cloth at a distance from one end thereof and the other end of the cloth and the reed or cord therein telescoped in or lapped by the iirst-named end of the cloth, and a continuous thread arranged to form stitches through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat to connect the same and also arranged to form other distinct stitches over the edge of the sweat-band and through the reed-cloth below the reed or cord in the bight thereof, whereby the reedis snugly secured in the bight of the cloth, the lapped ends of the cloth 'are connected together, and the upper edge of the sweat-band is dressed and snugly secured against the reed-cloth, substantially as specified.

3. A hat having a sweat-band and a reedcloth, the bight of which extends beyond the edge of the sweat-band and the folded edge of the hat and contains a reed or cord, and also having a thread arranged to forni stitches through the sweat-band, the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat to connect the saine and other stitches through the reed-cloth, below the reed in the bight thereof, alone, and also arranged to form loops l, 2 and 4between the reed-cloth and the folded edge of the hat and the portions of thread 3 against the inner side of the reed-cloth above the sweat-band, substantially as specified.

4. A hat having a sweat-band, a reed or l nesses.

WELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR. Witnesses:

GEO. Y. HYDE, W. A. KNIGHT. 

